Swanage with HECC - July 2022
Chelmsford Mountaineering Club members teamed up with the Herts & Essex Climbing Club for our first ever joint meet to Swanage on the Dorset coast.
So the story begins …
The limestone coastline of Swanage in Dorset offers some of the most exhilarating and committing climbing in the UK. Whilst predominantly a trad climbing venue, there’s also a wide selection of sport climbing areas. One of the testing aspects of the area are the grades, it's generally accepted that routes here feel harder and steeper here than the grade would suggest. The committing nature of simply getting to the bottom, general route finding whilst climbing and the breathtaking coastline with abundant geological history make the whole experience rather ‘exciting’.
Camping was at Acton Field Campsite, in the village of Langton Matravers, where we were kindly allocated to a corner of the campsite which we (almost) had to ourselves. A few of our keener members arrived a day or so before and made the most of the glorious weather by grabbing some early climbs. The remainder of the participants arrived Friday and quickly made themselves at home at the campsite. I suspect a discreet game of ‘camper van top trumps may have started after several CMC and HECC members arrived with rather blingy camper vans! One notable (and very blue) van arrived at the campsite and as I gazed at it thinking “Who the hell is this?” The passenger window dropped and a welsh accent greeted me with “Alright Grandad” … Dane had arrived!
Since this trip, it's fair to say my internet searches have included “climbing camper van” and “Mercedes-Benz Unimog camper conversion” etc etc.
The trip started in earnest on Saturday with the CMC contingent heading to Cattle Troughs, where club members enjoyed pushing themselves on routes of all grades. Glenn romped up his second (bold) HS and Graham climbed his first of the grade for over 5 years on the aptly named ‘Resurrection’. Josh battled his way up a VS called ‘ISIS’, JC made short work of an HS whilst Imogen continued to make steady progress and did some more solid leading. Yours truly with Paula managed to find (and climb) something that isn’t in any guidebook! Some then ended the day with a dip in the sea whilst the rest of us headed to the Kings Arms pub in LMT for a well-earned cider.
The day ended perfectly with a fantastic curry (for 22!) prepared by Josh and Imogen, six camping stoves were utilised to great effect! HECC members joined in providing a considerable amount of beer and wine and in true climbing trip tradition tall tales of the day's events were swapped.
Day 2…
Paul and I headed to Boulder Ruckle to do battle with ‘Aventura’ (HVS 4c … yeah right!). It was steep, fierce, and unforgiving. Barry and JC were climbing just to my right on ‘Bottomless Buttress’ and much puffing and panting were heard! Boulder Ruckle always delivers an adventure from the 40m free-hanging abseil to the steep and intimidating nature of the routes and it didn’t disappoint.
The remainder of Team-CMC headed to Winspit quarry for some atmospheric sport climbing in the sun. Whilst I took all day to do one route they busied themselves with warm and balmy bolt clipping and making short work of many routes. Highlights included Dane continuing to make progress by leading a stiff 5a whilst Rob entertained himself on some of the harder routes.
Naturally, we ended up at a pub, possibly my favourite in Swanage, The Square & Compass.
As individuals started to make tracks for Essex I pondered on the trip … great climbing with fantastic people and superb weather… doesn’t get much better in my opinion!
Did I mention it was my birthday?!?