Costa Blanca, Spain - September 2022
The much anticipated CMC trip to Costa Blanca proved to be a resounding success. Although known as a sport climbing Mecca, it also has an abundance of trad routes making it a great venue for most climbers. In addition the scenery is simply breathtaking!
We were based at The Orange House in the village of Finestrat, a great location with climbing only minutes away.
Sunday
Hannah, Josh, Imogen, Brad, Jamie, Tom, JC and Louis arrived in Spain at midday and headed straight out to Echo Valley for some sport climbing. After a quick recap of stripping sport anchors by Josh and Louis they spread themselves along the “Echo 1.5” crag and completed the first climbs of the week.
Later in the day, a plan was hatched by Head Chef Imogen to shop, cook and eat together, so nightly dinners where planned with military precision and daily patrols sent off to the local Aldi to fill up multiple shopping trollies. The clink of wine and beer bottles was testament to how well everyone threw themselves into this. All together over food, the group would tell tall tales of their climbing adventures, victory, woe and despair.
Dinner: Pasta (Head Chef: Imogen)
Monday
Bal and Ian arrived during the early hours and had a restless night ahead of their first full day in Spain. The group headed back to Echo Valley for some multi-pitch action on “Paret del Castellet”. Imogen, Hannah and Louis were again subject to Josh’s ‘approach navigation’ and ended up at the top of the route needing two abseils to get to the start . . . of the wrong crag. The rest of the group managed to find the crag slightly easier having the benefit of being able to call those at the top of the crag. This ultimately meant a late start on the route. Meanwhile, Paula, Piers and Dane, having started their day in Chelmsford, found themselves catching up the others on the second pitch. Piers tried to blend in with the locals by shouting down to Paula “Señorita I’m safe” from the belay.
Dinner: Risotto (Head Chef: Tom)
Tuesday
Having warmed up and looking at the weeks weather Piers and Josh decided they were getting up early to tackle Puig Campana via Esperlón Central (HS 4c) 14 pitches and about 600m. Following a short discussion and review of the route, Louis and JC also decided to join in on the fun! With the mountain dominating the skyline to the north of Finestrat it was an easy sell.
The rest of the team headed to Sierra de Toix and with plenty on offer, everyone spread out and got stuck into some great sport climbing. With routes bolted, named and graded this offered Hannah the perfect opportunity to complete her first lead. A great accomplishment, although unfortunately the route didn’t appear in the guide book as it’s known only to locals! The afternoon sun and the Orange House pool proved too much of a lure, so after whacky races back to Orange House base camp, shorts and bikinis were donned with barely a passing thought given for the 4 still toiling up Esperlón Central.
Finishing ahead of the guidebook time and having had a great day on the Puig, teams returned to the Orange House feeing very accomplished and were met with the wonderful sight of cold beers, water, burgers and sausages.
(Top tip for anyone interested in climbing Esperlón Central … take a light rack and one 60m rope. Take plenty of water. Start early and move efficiently.)
Dinner: BBQ (Head Chef: Brad)
Wednesday
A planned “recovery day” for most ended up being quite exhausting – with Piers, Paula, Josh, Imogen, Hannah, Jamie, Bal and Tom heading to Redován for Via Ferrata.
For those that haven’t heard of ‘Via Ferrata’, this is essentially a rock climbing route that employs artificial fixtures such as steel rungs, pegs, carved steps, ladders and bridges that provide both foot and handholds. The climbers attach themselves via two purpose made shock absorbing leashes that are designed to absorb a fall. These are then attached to their climbing harness.
En-route the group headed to the local Decathlon for some specific Via Ferrata kit (essential). With gear purchased (Piers resisted the urge to buy a set of bow and arrows!) The team hit the road …
The total route covered 700 meters, plus another 200 meters on trails divided into two parts: the first level (graded K2) had a series of bridges and crossing with some smaller sections of climbing the typical staples – this served as a good warm up for what was to come. The second section (graded K4) was far more demanding, the route climbs up the steep cliff has plenty of vertical and overhanging sections, with a unique hinge swing (which several people missed completely and were very miffed about it), a panoramic ladder climb (facing out from the cliff), ending in a 40 m bridge 135 m above the ground.
Whilst most of the group were dangling off steel cables, the remainder opted for some real climbing and headed to the sport climbing Mecca named Sella.
Regrouping back at the House everyone cleaned themselves up and headed to Benidorm! With a recommendation from the Orange House, the group headed to Tasa Y Basca in Tapas Alley, in the old town, where the owners promptly rearranged their tables to accommodate a large contingent of the CMC! Delicious tapas and wine was shared and enjoyed followed by cocktails, and more cocktails! Although some recollections of the evening where hazy, a Hen Party did feature.
Dinner: Tasa Y Basca
Thursday
The anticipated rain stopped play for most, with some headed to a local Via Ferrata while other washed off the hangovers in the sea. Piers, Paula, Brad and JC headed to Echo Valley but were soon scurrying for the car amidst a rain storm.
Dinner: Takeaway Pizza
Friday
Jamie, JC, Brad, Tom were sadly saying adios, with the rest of the group splitting up in search another full day out.
Josh, Imogen, Hannah, Lous and Dane headed back to Sierra de Toix to complete The Toix Ridge - 5 pitches of sport climbing and short ridge scramble before the descent. Louis and Dane charged it, then spent the afternoon enjoying the many sport routes and snoozing in shady caves. Whilst Imogen, Josh and Hannah took slightly longer due to some unplanned route variation, followed by a tricky down-climb to correct it!
Paula and Piers planned on Via Pany, but ended up a little lost. After drowning their sorrows in coffee and a second breakfast, they made a hasty retreat to Echo Valley.
Ian and Bal decided to tick off Espolón Central and completed it even faster than the others! Must be the Ron Hills?
Dinner: Paella (Head Chef: Imogen)
Saturday
Hannah and Bal headed off to Vía Pany on the north face of Penyal d’Ifac, thanks to the approach beta from Piers and Paula from the day before – the protected area requires visitor registration on a clunky Spanish website! The route consists of 7 pitches of mixed sport/trad which allowed Hannah the chance to do some more (official) leading, topping out to a crowd of tourists.
Piers and Paula headed back to Sierra de Toix to complete The Toix Ridge. They had a great day despite Paula legs losing a battle with the abundant thorn bushes.
Dane, Louis, Ian, Josh, Imogen headed to Sella.
Dinner: Spag Bol (Head Chef: Piers)
Sunday
Hannah and Bal had a chilled morning around the pool before reluctantly heading home.
Piers, Paula and Dane headed to Sella and had a pleasant day clipping bolts until rain stopped play.
Dinner: Left overs
So with trip over and the intrepid members now sat behind desks again its time to reflect what was a truly memorable trip . . .
The group was simply awesome (albeit loud!) and a great mix of personalities. The climbing and location was nothing short of sensational and is a rock climbers paradise.
Having barely scratched the surface of what Costa Blanca had to offer, another CMC trip to this magnificent venue will surely not be far away.
So till next time . . .