Petzl NEOX Belay Device Review
Reviewed by Paul Haxell (February 2025)
Petzl launched its NEOX in June 2024, some 30 years after the original GRIGRI appeared. With a headline that suggested it was the way to “Take your belay game to the next level,” it seemed as though it was what I needed.
Having learnt to climb many decades ago, we used body belaying and the (then) new-fangled figure of eight device! When I returned to climbing in 2023, I thought I’d try this new technology and purchased a GRIGRI. I wasn’t getting on with it very well, I’d consistently lock it up when attempting to give slack.
From the outside both look the same. Both are described as cam assisted blocking devices for belaying. However, Petzl describe the purpose for each slightly differently: The GRIGRI is “designed for top rope and lead climbing” whilst the NEOX is “optimised for lead climbing.”
Petzl describe the NEOX as having an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber, suggesting this as the key difference from the GRIGRI. It sounded like the NEOX would solve my problems.
See below: GRIGRI top, NEOX bottom. The wheel of the cam is clearly evident.
It is suggested that the effective use of the GRIGRI- particularly when quickly giving slack when the leader is clipping, is achieved applying a specific belaying technique described by Petzl. I just didn’t know that at the time.
From Petzl Technical notice: https://www.petzl.com/sfc/servlet.shepherd/version/download/068Tx000009YCjEIAW
I’ve been using the NEOX on and off over the last 6 months for indoor climbing, both top roping and lead belaying and on some sport routes in the Peak District.
Whilst from my experience it does enable the rope to be paid out more readily using a traditional belaying technique, it is not foolproof. I have still managed to lock it up when snatching to pay out rope. That said, those instances have occurred significantly fewer than when I have used a GRIGRI.
It is clear to me that if you have a GRIGRI and are competent/ efficient in its use, then there is no benefit in also having a NEOX.
I will continue to use the NEOX as my go-to cam assisted device, however I will not dispense with the GRIGRI. This has a place in my Top Rope Solo set up, backing up my micro traction as the NEOX might have the potential to be a little too free flowing.
You may well see me using my DMM Mantis at the wall, just to keep my hand in as the NEOX, like the GRIGRI, is limited to single ropes and would not be what I use for Trad, Alpine or Winter climbing.
Like so many of our choices, there is a combination of the need we are seeking to resolve and our personal preferences that influence our choices.
If you want to have a play at the wall with my NEOX and draw your own conclusions, I’m happy to let you have a try for an evening.